Monday, January 31, 2011

"Studying" Abroad

Yes, I am a junior in college. And yes, my homework was a word search for food items.

As you can see above, this semester has been incredibly challenging so far. Jokes. But since I am supposed to be studying abroad, I guess I'll tell you a little about my classes this semester.

I'm taking only four classes/12 credit hours (win). I have each class only twice a week, and only two classes each day -- with a nice chunk of day in the middle for lunch and a nap. And the real kicker --> NO CLASS ON FRIDAYS :)

My Mondays kick off with Cultura de España. La maestra por esta clase se llama Elsa. She is wonderful. Not only is she a great teacher, but she's also very warm and funny. I would describe her as your 'typical' Spanish woman -- she's very fashionable, has a lot of personality, and pronounces her 'j's like she is hocking a huge loogie. The class itself is also pretty great. We study all of the fun stuff about Spain -- the art, music, history, traditions, fiestas, individual provinces, etc, etc. Last week we spent half of the period listening to different flamenco songs, and this week we took a field trip to the brand-new History of Andalucía Museum.

The next class I'm taking is Linguistics with Miguel Angel (our program director). First he is an awesome guy and a great director (he even accompanied me to the emergency room at 1am - but that's a story for later). Second, this is my hardest blow-off class. I have to admit that the material is actually a bit difficult, but probably because everything about it is completely foreign to me. Right now we are covering how people form different sounds and specifically sounds in Spanish.

is this language class or physics??


crazy symbols invade my notebook daily


It is incredibly interesting and I love learning it because it has already improved my pronunciation and speaking abilities. We study sounds and compare them not only from Spanish to English but actually within the Spanish language itself -- Latin American vs. Caribe vs. Spain vs. el norte de Spain vs. Andaluz etc etc etc.

After learning a bit about how andalucians speak, I've come to the conclusion that this is possibly the worst place to learn Spanish because they speak it in a way unlike any other. They "lisp" their 'c's and 'z's; they drop their 'd's and 's's; they don't pronounce random middle consonants. For example -- instead of saying 'He comido' (I ate), they say 'He comio.' 'Él e-tá en Colorao' instead of 'Él está of Colorado.' 'Do mono' instead of 'Dos monos.' 'Mucha grathia' instead of 'muchas gracias.' Luckily, Carmen (my señora) does none of this and speaks so very slowly.

NOT. She drops every single S and any other vital consonant. Listening to Carmen speak is like listening to Charlie Brown's teacher. It's a bit frustrating that 50% of the time I'm not entirely sure what she is saying because 1) my vocabulary is limited (though has vastly improved) and 2) even if she is using vocabulary that I understand, the words that come out of her mouth sound nothing like the words I have learned. I have learned that patience is my best friend. But on a positive note, I am sure that all of this will greatly help to improve my Spanish abilities down the road.

Moving on to one of my favorites -- Oral Spanish. Contrary to linguistics, this class is by far my easiest class. First, it NEVER starts on time... typical Spain. When we do begin, we usually just look at some worksheets of cartoons that are completely politically incorrect. We literally spent two weeks talking about stereotypes of different nationalities -- as if they are all in fact 100% true. Por ejemplo, los japonenes siempre tienen las cámeras. I've found that in general Spaniards are tolerant people, but also incredibly politically incorrect. The following gems are from our actual worksheets. Enjoy.

Russians = vodka for breakfast, vodka for lunch, vodka for dinner.


Swiss people don't drink in bars. They get drunk on their couch with the cat from The Simpsons.


All Germans drink beer and eat sausage. And they're fat.


A typical Mexican can be found laying in the street, wearing a sombrero, and cradling a bottle of tequila.


Basically every class I end up asking myself, "Is this real life??" The informality makes this class very engaging, interesting, and at times both funny and awkward. For example, last week we spent nearly half the period discussing how a fellow classmate spent his time in Amsterdam over Semana Blanca...and how he probably does not remember 95% of it.

Anyway, last but not least is La Historia del Arte. This class is unique because each week we take a field trip to churches, museums, and neighborhoods in Granada that correspond to what we are studying. It has been a great way to explore Granada and learn a bunch about Spanish history. So far we have visited la Capilla Real, la Catedral, la Hospital, los baños arabes, la Alhambra, y la Cartuja.

la Alhambra


incredible details in the estuco


mudejar ceiling in the Alcázar in Sevilla


this was not technically part of a field trip, but i found it while we were walking to one our destinations and i loved it!

Homes without people. People without homes. The street talks...

Our art teacher Mónica is incredibly sweet - and is super stylish (but seriously. I want her clothes). However, I have to say that after about an hour of listening to her go and on about arches, I start daydreaming about what American food I miss most. And that keeps me occupied for the rest of the class period... and my entire walk home... and when I'm falling asleep at night. [I think peanut butter comes in at #1... Pasta with pesto is a close second - though that craving should be taken care of when I visit Italy next month :).] That said, thanks to these semi-boring lectures I have been able to identify every type of column on all the buildings we visit while traveling -- and that's pretty fun, right?!

Alright - so that's a look at my classes... but seeing as studying abroad is really not about studying, this might be the last you hear about them. JOKES.


kind of.

Meet the Parents

Saturday, January 15 -- Meeting my host family

Accidentally overslept that morning -- AHHH. I was planning on waking up at 9 - getting ready, eating breakfast, making sure everything was packed and in order so I could meet my host family with ease and a few prepared spanish phrases. Unfortunately, no one in our room woke-up - and before I knew it, I was leaping out of my covers panicking at 10:30. My family would be at the hostel in a ½ hour and half of my suitcase was still strewn about -- not to mention it had been a while since I last showered. Basically, I was a mess! But I whipped around the room like a tornado, stuffing all of my stuff into my bag in a haphazard-i-dont-care-must-not-be-late kind of fashion. After brushing my teeth and a lightening speed application of makeup, mckenna and I took all of our bags to the teeny tiny elevator on the fourth floor. YIKES. We piled it high and then met it at the bottom. As I lugged all of my bags into the lobby, I noticed there were already a few senoras there - it was a few minutes past 11 after all. Almost right away, a very pretty woman came over to me with my picture in her hand -- this was my senora! She essentially tackled me a great big hug and started saying how beautiful I was and other things in spanish that my stressed out brain could’t decipher at the time.

Jorge (my 34-year-old host brother) slipped away to get the car and we walked out to the street to meet him. We stuffed the trunk and then I got into the back seat. I was so stressed from the frantic morning that my words decided to abandon me. So while driving, when they asked me what I liked to eat - I replied something along the lines of ‘te gusta…” meaning I was telling them what THEY like to eat. WRONG-O! I must have made the worst impression. Things got slightly better after that thoug.. I asked about granada, the weather, any other simple things.

Unlike miguel angel or our guides so far, Carmen and Jorge spoke very quickly and stay true to the andalucian dialect--- they ‘lisp’ their c’s and drop their 's'. Therefore, not being an expert in understanding spanish in the first place, this was pretty darn rough.

We got to their apartment buiding and I live on the second floor. The building is very nice -- marble looking floors, nice big wooden doors. And Carmen’s place is wonderful! It’s clean, stylish, and comfortable all at the same time. It has three bedrooms -- one for Carmen, one for Jorge, and one for me --- we all share one bathroom, but so far it hasn't been a problem.

this is my señora's room. every single day she arranges these weird stuffed animals in the same creepy way. she's cool, but i really don't understand this.


There is a living room/dining room where the formal table is set up within a short distance to the TV - as españoles like to watch noticias during siesta (eating their lunch).




There is also a kitchen with a tiny eating area for breakfast -- where Carmen and I eat usually eat.


I brought my suitcases to my room and unpacked EVERYTHING in a record time of less than 40 minutes. I am starting to think I may have underpacked a bit…. Oh well! My room is really nice - I have a window over my bed, a desk, a bulletin board, a few shelves, and a wall-sized storage armoir unit with hanging space, drawers, and shelves.



After I unpacked, I went to the kitchen to see what Carmen was up to. Showing me what was for lunch, she opened up the oven door --- and what do you know? In it is a gigantic fish just sitting in the pan, scales, head and all! Ahhhh! I reassured myself, this is Spain and you’re here to try new things -- no pasa nada.

Soon enough Jorge and his novia Juana came over to eat lunch with us. We set the table in the living room and chowed down. The fish was DELICIOUS. If all fish is like this, I imagine I could eat it everyday for the rest of my life -- which is a lot coming from me. After lunch we sat down to watch Los Cuatros Fantásticos (or Fantastic 4) together. Let me tell you - it takes a LOT of energy to follow a movie in Spanish... so much so that I'm sure my new family noticed that I was nodding off... oops.

Around 6:00pm, Carmen took me out to meet up with a few other señoras and students from my neighborhood. We all walked together to the school, CEGRÍ, together so that we would be familiar with the route. And then we went to a tetería together (a tea house). La tetería was decorated in arabe style and the tea sets were beautifully intricate. I tried té moruno (de morocco) that was green tea, mint, and lime. It was realllly sweet - but pretty tasty!

Carmen, un otra señora, Erin, and myself at the tetería


When we got back to the house, Carmen left and Jorge and Juana made dinner for me. Actually, they started making dinner around 11pm. YIKES. We ate around 11:30 and it turns out that they made pizza... or something they called pizza but was unlike any other pizza I've had. This pizza had tuna from a can and mushrooms as toppings. HAHA.

Friday, January 21, 2011

La primera semana

Alright - so get ready for the longest blog post ever... (and it only covers the first week!)


Last Tuesday was the beginning of this great big adventure.After two weeks of not being able to see the carpet in my room, I had finally finished packing... Though basically I was still shoving things into suitcases on our way out the door. Mom and I were running late (surprise), and had reached the Grove when we realized I had forgotten my coat at home. And so we turned that bus around, I sprinted upstairs, and soon enough we were on the road again, hoping that the snow wouldn't cause crazy traffic.


Luckily, we got to O'Hare with time to spare for a curbside goodbye. It was entirely bittersweet. Excitement and nerves mixed with pangs of sadness. A few tears, a long hug, and that was it. Dad came with me inside to get me to security and then that too came to end. I walked away awkwardly hauling my bags -- alone, anxious, and nervously excited. Surely this is a dream!


If it is a dream, it is one of the greatest dreams I have ever dreamt. Upon arriving in Granada, we stepped down onto the tarmac, blinking into the sun -- just like the Lion King. There was not a cloud in the sky and on the left the Sierra Nevadas rose in grandeur.


first steps on granada ground

On the short bus ride from the airport to our hostal in el centro, I soaked up the mountains, the fields of trees, and eventually the fancy buildings lining cobblestone streets. As soon as we got off the bus, we completely ruined the ambiance. Seventy-seven American students stumbling over the sidewalks dragging entirely too much luggage and sticking out like sore thumbs.


After settling into the hostel room we set out to explore a little bit and hopefully find a fun place for our first dinner. Exploring went well, but we completely failed on the dinner front. Things got so dire that the words Dominoes and Burger King were actually tossed into the mix. Luckily I decided to take charge and save us from American food on our first night. We walked down the block to this tiny Kebab shop we had passed earlier and ordered chicken shawarmas to-go for 3€. The guy was so nice to us -- despite our complete failure to speak Spanish -- and ended up giving us free desert that was dripping in honey, sugar, and deliciousness. Eating the shwarmas in the hotel room was pure heaven. YUM YUM YUMMMMM. a shawarma (aka chwarma) is a pita sandwich of shaved chicken, lettuce, tomato, carrot shavings, and some delicious sour cream sauce -- all warmed up on a skillet. so fatty but oh so gooood.


SHAWARMAS!!!!

The next day we went to orientation at a school just a block away from our school (CEGRÍ). Nothing too captivating there, so I'll just move on to our lunch break. A group of us decided to try out a restaurant that was nearby called Hicuri. It was very trendy and artsy - with entire walls painted in bright colored murals.


Cool artwork on the wall at Hicuri

I decided to try the menú del día -- which gives you choices for three courses and drink for about 10€. I didn't really understand what the waiter was saying when he told us the options so I just randomly picked some to be surprised. Before our first course they brought out an appetizer of carrot sticks and a light dip -- not quite like ranch back home, but yummy all the same. The first course turned out to be gazapacho -- a traditional andalucían dish. Essentially it is a cold tomato bisque with avocado and hard-boiled eggs in it. Not gonna lie - one of the worst things ive put in my mouth… But now wanting to offend anyone, I asked breanne to tell me a story while i shoveled down as much as I could stand. You win some you lose some I guess.


and this is breanne's face after a spoonful of gazpacho. it says it all...

Luckily the second dish was delicious. It was a mix of vegetables and a meat substitute (possibly tofu... but that was lost in translation) in a curry sauce served over rice. I'm not sure it was a "Spanish" dish but it definitely tasted good and I ate every last crumb. Dessert turned out to be a piece of fruit of my choice -- I went with an orange. Andalucíans eat oranges and mandarinas ALL DAY LONG -- they're very tasty though.



After lunch, we hurried back to go on our walking "Survival Tour" led by Narea. We visited the main landmarks around el centro (la catedral, el mercado, and a bunch of plazas) and picked up little bits of history and facts along the way.

la catedral

Following a short nap after the tour we went out in search of tapas. A tapa is a small appetizer or meal that you receive when you order a drink. It's a long-standing tradition in Spain as a whole -- however, Granada is one of the only places remaining that still has tapas gratis - or free. In most other cities you have to pay extra for tapas. Here you can buy a 1.5€ drink and get a whole plate of food too!


It turned out to be a little difficult to find a place to fit all of us because every bar literally is the size of a hobbit hole. Eventually we just split up and discovered different bars in smaller groups. The first place we ventured into served a tapa of a toasted ham and cheese sandwich. Although it was simple, it was absolutely delicious. The second bar where we went had a wonderful atmosphere -- it was cozy, yet spacious, chill but a bit more sophisticated than other places. Here, I decided to try the tinto de verano - it's red wine mixed with carbonated lemonade - and it is the best thing I've ever had. It is for sure my new favorite thing in Spain.


tinto de verano = <3

The night got even better when our tapa here turned out to be pescado frito (fried fish). Now my whole life I have stayed away from fish - maybe because it is just so... fishy. But these tapas were little chunks of FRESH fish lightly fried and served with a lemon slice. I LOVED IT - I think Im a convert -- maybe it is because everything is just so fresh… (granada is only a skip away from the coast of the mediterranean). Whatever the reason, it was definitely a successful first, and certainly not last, tapas experience.

yummy pescado frito


lovely ladies having tapas

On Friday, I finally went to the bank and it was actually open. The banks here have very weird hours and many of them close at 2:00 for the day. Luckily I was finally able to get inside to exchange dollars for euros. I went up to the counter with McKenna and she ended up saying, “tenemos dol-AR-es.” The clerk chuckled and immediately corrected us -- saying "DO-la-re!" and pointing at the money and then "doLOR" and pointing at his elbow in pain. After this little lesson, we learned how important emphasis on the right syllable is.


After tucking my Euros into my coin purse (soooo european haha), Breanne and I headed out to El Mercado de San Augustín that is held every morning. There was fresh meat and fish EVERYWHERE -- literally legs of every single animal and god knows what else just hanging at every stand. We made our way through what I can imagine is a vegetarian's nightmare and wandered over to the panadería to snag some fresh baguettes at a cool 0.75€. Then we went across the way to the next vendor to purchase some fresh cheese. Seeing as I am not a cheese expert in the first place and also that I don't know Spanish very well yet, we were a little lost on what to buy. Luckily the lady was very nice and just cut us what she would recommend to go with our bread -- and un cuarto kilograma of this mystery cheese was only a handsome 2.15€. Our last stop before our picnic was at the fruteria stall where we picked up some fresh manderinas y peras. At last, we took our finds to a jardín/parque en el centro and had a picnic in the sunshine with Audrey, Madeline, McKenna, and Esteban. It was heavenly. Heeeaavenly. It’s January and I was without a coat and sweating. Love love love. We just sat and ate and talked and laughed.


what a perfect afternoon :)

After a quick nap at the hostel (napping is the name of the game here), we met our group at El Fuente de Isabel Católica to go on a tour of the old part of Granada known as Albaycín and Sacromonte. Wandering through all of the tiny, winding cobblestone streets was unreal. Along the way we stopped at various plazas and cathedrals for short history lessons. Many of the older buildings were originally mezquitas (mosques) until los Reyes Católicos (Isabel and Ferdinand) expelled the Moors from Granada in 1492. The arabe influence is evident in much of the architecture, with the most obvious building being the famous Alhambra -- a Moorish fortress. On our tour we had a stunning view of La Alhambra at sunset - life in Granada is basically like a movie that just keeps getting better.



arabe door in la albaycín


view of the city and la catedral from albaycín


la alhambra and the sierra nevadas


We kept walking from la albaycín into Sacromonte -- which is the oldest part of Granada. Here there are houses and restaurants that are essentially caves -- they are built directly into the mountainside. Sacromonte is home to Granada's pretty large gypsy community. Now if I had a penny for every time I have been warned not to accept a rosemary sprig from a gypsy, I would probably be... three or four cents richer. Alright - so not that rich - but the message is loud and clear. Apparently the gypsies give you a sprig of rosemary for "free" and then grab your hand to read your future -- at 25€ a pop. And if you don't pay --- well... let's just say that's not an option.


cave home in Sacromonte

After the tour, we were famished so we headed out in search of Café Fútbol for some churros con chocolate -- BEST LYFE. Basically they are tubes of fried dough that you dip in a cup of melty chocolate sauce. SO GOOOOOD. I will definitely be going back there!



After the churros we went to our program’s welcome dinner AT 9:30pm! It is definitely a different schedule here in spain -- We stayed until about 12 - everything is slower and more social here and I love it.